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Everest expedition

everst expedition

Everest expeditions,Expedition Everest,mt Everest climbing, climbing mt Everest,Climb mount Everest organize by the Everest climbing company   Mountain Air guided Adventures(p.)Ltd.This  adventure agency leading expedition and climbing in Nepal since 1999 and managed the low cost climb Everest in Nepal.we fully make permit and itinerary for the authority to climb Everest Nepal.we have more than 10 years experience  Everest mountain climbing guide and sherpa. 

Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet, as well as many other less frequently climbed routes. Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 and the first recognised of fifteen routes to the top by 1996. This was, however, a route decision dictated more by politics than by design as the Chinese border was closed to foreigners in 1949. Reinhold Messner (Italy) summited the mountain solo for the first time, without supplementary oxygen or support, on the more difficult Northwest route via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, on August 20 1980. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters. This route has been noted as the 8th climbing route to the summit.

Most attempts are made during April and May before the summer monsoon season. A change in the jet stream at this time of year reduces the average wind speeds high on the mountain. While attempts are sometimes made after the monsoons in September and October, the additional snow deposited by the monsoons and the less stable weather patterns makes climbing more challanging.

The northeast ridge route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek to the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up Base Camp at 5,180 m (17,000 ft) on a gravel plain just below the glacier. To reach Camp II, climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse at around 6,100 m (20,000 ft). Camp III (ABC - Advanced Base Camp) is situated below the North Col at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). To reach Camp IV on the north col, climbers ascend the glacier to the foot of the col where fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col at 7,010 m (23,000 ft). From the North Col, climbers ascend the rocky north ridge to set up Camp V at around 7,775 m (25,500 ft). The route goes up the north face through a series of gullies and steepens into downsloping slabby terrain before reaching the site of Camp VI at 8,230 m (27,000 ft). From Camp VI, climbers will make their final summit push. Climbers must first make their way through three rock bands known as First Step: 27,890 feet - 28,000 feet, Second Step: 28,140 feet - 28,300 feet, and Third Step: 28,510 feet - 28,870 feet. Once above these steps, the final summit slopes (50 to 60 degrees) to the top.China is paving a 108-km (66-mile) dirt road from Tingri County to its Base Camp in order to accommodate growing numbers of climbers on their side of the mountain. It will become the highest asphalt-paved road in the world. Construction began on June 18, 2007, at a cost of 150 million yuan (US$19.7 million). China also plans on routing the 2008 Olympic Torch Relay over Everest, going up the South Col route and back down the North Col route, on the way to the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing.

Trip Facts

Trip Facts of Everest Expedition

Activities : 3 nights in Kathmandu with nagarkot sightseeing, 6 days in Tibet and remaining climbing period of everest.

Start/End : Kathmandu

Destination : Mt. Everest Summit

First Ascent : 1953

Trip Duration : 58 days

Max. Altitude : 8848 meters

Group Size : Min. 1 / Max.20

Best Season : February, March, April, May, June, September, October, November & December.

Trip Grade : 5

Daily walking Hour : Approx. 4-6


Itinerary of Everest Expedition

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.

Day 2: One and Half hour drive to Nagarkot. Accommodation in luxury tents for acclimatization.

Day 3: Early morning sunrise view of the mountains. Visit some highest points to observe.

Day 4: Fly to Lhasa. Overnight at hotel.

Day 5: Visit to Potala Jokhang and Barkhor.

Day 6: Visit to Drepung and Sera monasteries

Day 7: Free day in Lhasa.

Day 8: Drive to Shigatse(3900m). Overnight in Hotel.

Day 9: Drive to Shekar(4352m). Overnight in hotel

Day 10: Drive to Everest Base Camp(EBC). Overnight in Tent
Today we leave the main Lhasa to Kathmandu highway and head due south towards Everest. We drive over the Pang La, which will hopefully give us our first good views of Everest, some 40 miles away. Then we descend to a village in the valley floor, and continue up the valley to base camp. The road becomes rougher and rougher, but the scenery becomes more spectacular as we round each corner. Finally there is the awesome north face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us. From base camp, it does seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away.

Day 11-13: Acclimatization in EBC.

We spend 4 days at base camp while our bodies adapt to the altitude. This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, and photograph Everest. For those who are feeling up to it, there are plenty of hillsides to scramble up, and we can walk down the valley to Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away. Another worthwhile objective would be to reach Tillman's Camp, an idyllic spot beside the majestic Central Rongbuk Glacier, which offers staggering views of the north side of Everest. It is important not to overdo it during this period - there will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later! We must work at resting, while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food.

Day 14: Trek to Intermediate Camp (6200m).

At last, with yaks carrying our supplies, we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek starts easily enough, crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small subsidiary valley, but it soon opens up to reveal the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this side of Everest. We camp in a very pleasant spot, with plenty of space, no more than 2 hours after having turned into the East Rongbuk Valley. The camp is located on the right bank, overlooking the river below, and is short of the moraines and the toe of the glacier that lie ahead.

Day 15: Trek to Advance Base Camp (6400m).
Crossing small streams and moraines, we gain the opposite side of the valley and contour along it until the valley makes a very definite swing north.

Here will be the site for our interim camp for future journeys between base and advance base but, for now, it marks the climb onto the glacier proper and the start of the Magic Highway. On subsequent journeys up the East Rongbuk Glacier, we will be fitter and better acclimatised, enabling us to complete the trek to ABC easily in two days, hence this will become the site of a single interim camp located where the glacier sweeps north (c5,890 metres).

The Magic Highway is an unlikely tongue of moraine that passes down the middle of the treacherous ice pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The route is surprisingly level, with little height gain for the effort expended as the altitude makes it tough.

Once on the Magic Highway, the conditions become more austere than during the previous day's walk, with ice and moraine constant companions from here on. At the start of the season, the streams on the glacier will be slight, carrying little water. However, as the season progresses through spring, and towards summer, some of these streams will become torrents, that will require frequent changes to the route in order to cross them safely.

The Highway finally drifts in toward the east ridge of Changtse, where a lake often forms. The interim camp is reached after a 5 hour day of slow walking and nestles close to the entrance of the cwm to the north of Changtse, near to this moraine lake.

Day 16-53: Mt.Everest Climbing period.
It is not possible to be prescriptive about how the mountain will be climbed from this point on, as it will be matter for the leader and the team. For those that have been to extreme altitude before, we would aim to be as flexible as possible to allow for people's preferred acclimatisation routine. For some, this may mean climbing as high as camp 3 on the North Ridge, as soon as possible, before diving back to base camp for a long rest. Others might want to remain longer in ABC, taking several trips to the North Col and sleeping there overnight but not going any higher, for example.

Whatever routine is adopted for acclimatisation, as soon as everyone is happy that they have achieved an optimum state of readiness, the team will return to base camp for a long period of rest and eating.

After many days of resting and preparing, we return once more to ABC, using the single interim camp at the start of the Magic Highway, en route. Again, we pause in ABC, to eat some more and to ensure that everything is in place, and the weather is set as fair as possible. Then we head up. The route to the North Col will be well-known entity, as its slopes will have been ascended a few times by each of us as part of our acclimatisation process. However, we should find the metres slipping by more easily, as sights are now set on the very pinnacle of the mountain.

From Camp 1 on the North Col, the route turns to follow a long snow ramp, the north ridge proper, that rests like a gigantic flying buttress supporting the upper reaches of the mountain. Although never steep, this section is prone to wind, sweeping icily across the mountain. After a full day, we reach camp 2 located at the head of the ramp.

From here, the route moves on to broken rocky ground of shattered shale, as the north ridge cast off its layers of snow. However, the route remains relatively easy angled, although the gradient increases gently, until the next camp is reached. This is located where the mass of the north ridge rams home hard against the bulk of the mountain, on rocky shelves. The day is rewarded with stupendous views over the glaciers below. What were viewed as big mountains as they dominated the Magic Highway, now more easily blend with the humble backdrop of the Tibetan Plateau and the flatlands beyond.

The top camp will give you an even greater sense of the world below your feet. The ascent remains on broken ledges, but these are easy with shale and scree interlacing between them until snow runnels give out onto the north face proper. Once clear of the rocks and on more open slopes, you turn directly upwards, to arrive at the final camp at about 8,400-metres.

Summit day begins before mid-night! Leaving the tents in the still of the night, you headlamps shine up to pierce the darkness and illuminate a faint gully that leads to the ridge above. This line through the rocks is steeper than those traverse the day before, but the fixed ropes help lift you towards the skyline. Some scrambling, accompanied by a disproportionate amount of panting, will land you on the ridge at over 8,500- metres. The only thing now between you and the top, is about 400 metres of ascent, 3 rock steps and over a kilometre of ridge - the ultimate tightrope! As dawn breaks, you will see the awesome Kangshung Face falling off to your left - a mind-boggling drop in to Tibet. For the main part, you remain on the right flank and traverse easily in places, but the route is punctuated by the First, Second and Third Steps. The hardest of these is the Second, which has a ladder and fixed rope to allow an ascent, which would be virtually impossible otherwise. Additionally, you can expect an airy traverse en route to gaining the top. Finally, however, the mountain yields, and the final summit snowfield, that you had seen from miles below will come under your feet and herald your arrival to the Top of the World.

Day 54: Return to advance base camp.

Day 55: Return to Base Camp.

Day 56: Cleaning of Base Camp.

Day 57: Drive to Nyalam. Overnight in hotel

Day 58: Drive to Kathmandu. Transfer to hotel.

Note: It is possible to combine with some other activities such as white water rafting and wildlife safari. The itinerary can be customized according to your duration of holiday.

Service Includes/Excludes

Service Includes

  • Flight to Lhasa Airport.
  • Porters/Yaks to carry equipments and food all the way to BC & back.
  • Full board accommodation en-route to/from Base camp.
  • One head Climbing guide/Sardar.
  • Cook & kitchen boys at BC.
  • Experienced & skillful High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (One Sherpa for one Client)
  • POISK Oxygen (08 bottles per client & 06 per Sherpa).
  • Mask & regulator mask set ( must be return after the Expedition).
  • Highly preferable meals at BC with complete hot drink & normal beverages.
  • Exported High altitude food for higher camps (ready to eat food).
  • Best quality Tents at BC single or twin sharing as per the client desire.
  • All necessary kitchen equipment.
  • Best quality Dinning tent with enough no of teble & chairs, plus inside the tent, we will set Gas Heaters to make the Dinning hall enough warm.
  • Complete carpeting inside the dinning tent.
  • Comfortable & portable wooden toilet at the base camp.
  • A nice portable wooden shower room with hot water at the base camp.
  • High quality high altitude tents for above BC use.
  • Necessary climbing hardware gears with fixed ropes.
  • Enough EPI (high altitude) gases with burners for higher camps use.
  • Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose.
  • Radio walkie-talkie set to each client with base station & permit cost.
  • Satellite phone for emergency purpose ($ 4 chargeable for personal call).
  • Generator/solar panel with accessories for recharging & power supply purpose.
  • Gammov bag for medical purpose.
  • Insurance of all local team members.
  • All airport/hotel transfers.
  • Day tour program around KTM.
  • Celebration meal & pre-briefing.
  • Expedition blessing Puja arrangement at northside BC.
  • Last but most important COMPLETE SET UP INTERM/MIDDLE CAMP with sleeping bags, sleeping mattress, food & drinking stuff & cooking crew.

Service Excludes

  • Personal insurance ( Suggested to have evacuation policy as well)
  • Nepal visa
  • Major meals in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Personal natures expenses.
  • Cost of emergency evacuation.
  • Summit bonus & Tips.

Everest expedition fixed group deparature date

Everest expediton climbing group

Everest expedition permit cost

Everest expedition climbing duration

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